OffroadAdmin
It’s becoming more common every day for vehicles to come equipped with a hitch receiver and trailer hitch, but that doesn’t mean hitch classes and trailer hitch sizes are widely understood. It shouldn’t really be surprising that lots of vehicles have them, considering even the most basic of SUVs and pickup trucks can tow thousands of pounds nowadays.
You may even find smaller hitches on cars! Well, in this 2026 guide, we’re going to dive headfirst into the world of hitch classes and trailer hitch sizes.
Jeep Wrangler Hitches
Before getting right into the good stuff, we’d like to point out something. This is especially valid for Jeep Wrangler owners. Jeeps tend to have two attachment methods for hitch assemblies:
- Hitch-mounted to your frame (these are the most common and are generally always reliable and super durable);
- Hitches are built right into a bumper (sure, off-road bumpers may be made from some super high-quality steel or aluminum, but that doesn’t mean it’s safe to use them for towing).
If your Jeep has the 2nd option, we definitely recommend you look into the bumper you have and double-check that you can tow safely with it.
Hitch Classes & Trailer Hitch Sizes
So, how are hitches categorized? They’re categorized based on how much they can handle. Basically, how high-quality they are. For the purposes of this article, we’ll be discussing:
- Class 1 hitches;
- Class 2 hitches;
- Class 3 hitches;
- Class 4 hitches.
Class 1 hitches
Class 1 hitches are the lowest grade hitch in terms of what they can handle. A class 1 hitch has a maximum tow rating of 2000 pounds, and can only handle 200 pounds of tongue weight.
For those unfamiliar with what tongue weight means, it’s essentially the amount of pressure directly on the hitch. Class 1 hitch assemblies generally have the 1 and 1 quarter openings, and look fairly small.
These hitch assemblies work very well for small vehicles that only want to tow small trailers or even bike racks. We recommend a 1-⅞ ball, along with a wiring harness with only 4 pins.
Class 2 hitches
A class 2 hitch is stronger than a class 1 hitch assembly but shares the same 1 and 1 quarter receivers. Class 2 hitches can tow 3500 pounds, and handle 350 pounds of tongue weight. A significant increase from class 1.
Once again, the 4-pin harness will work great, but we recommend a 2” ball rather than the 1-⅛ ball. Class 2 is perfect for people who want to tow small boats or heavier bicycle accessories. Also will work better on rougher roads.
Class 3 hitches
Class 3 hitch assemblies are by far the most common class out there. These assemblies allow for a maximum tow rating of 5000 lbs, along with a 500 lb maximum tongue weight (although the tongue weight may differ depending on the vehicle and how the mount is secured).
A class 3 hitch has a 2-inch receiver (2 inches by 2 inches) and works very well with the 2-inch ball. These hitch assemblies can handle a larger-sized ball, but generally, 2 inches is enough.
One super-large change from class 1 and 2 hitch assemblies is the 7-pin trailer harness requirement. Generally, trailers that are used among this class will have their own brakes (car trailers, heavy boat trailers, etc.) in order to save your brakes and transmission from strain. The extra mechanics here make it so that you need the extra pins.
Class 4 hitches
Class 4 hitches also have a 2-inch receiver (2 inch by 2 inch), and are super common on large heavy-duty pickup trucks. Nowadays, you can even get these on large SUVs like the Ford Expedition and Chevy Suburban.
Class 4 hitches generally have a maximum tow rating of 10,000 pounds and a maximum tongue weight rating of around 1000 to 1500 pounds. Class 4 will, of course, require a 7-pin trailer harness. Although it’s unlikely you’ll find this class of hitch on a Wrangler, it will come stock on the new Jeep Gladiators.
Conclusion
If you plan to tow safely, understanding hitch classes and trailer hitch sizes is essential. Choosing the right hitch means matching your vehicle’s capabilities with the correct class, receiver size, and wiring setup.
Before towing anything, take a few minutes to review your owner’s manual and verify manufacturer specifications for both factory and aftermarket components. A properly rated hitch doesn’t just protect your vehicle. It protects everyone on the road.
Hitch Classes & Trailer Hitch Sizes FAQ
What hitch class do I need for my vehicle in 2026?
The hitch class you need depends on two things: how much you plan to tow and what your vehicle is rated for. Always match the hitch class to the lower of your vehicle’s tow rating or your trailer’s weight to stay safe and legal.
Can I install a higher hitch class than my vehicle’s tow rating?
You technically can, but it won’t increase your vehicle’s towing capacity. Your engine, transmission, suspension, and brakes still set the limits, so upgrading the hitch alone won’t let you tow more safely.
Are bumper-mounted hitches safe for towing?
In most cases, no. Unless the bumper is specifically rated for towing, bumper-mounted hitches, especially on off-road bumpers, are not designed to handle real tongue weight or trailer loads.
What’s the difference between tongue weight and towing capacity?
Towing capacity is the total weight you can pull. Tongue weight is the downward force applied directly to the hitch. Too much tongue weight can damage your hitch, suspension, or frame, even if you’re under the tow limit.
Can a Jeep Wrangler safely tow with a Class 3 hitch?
Yes, if the hitch is frame-mounted and your Wrangler’s factory tow rating supports it. Many Wranglers are well-suited for Class 3 towing when properly equipped.
Do electric vehicles and hybrids change hitch class requirements in 2026?
They can. EVs and hybrids often have strong torque but lower tow ratings due to cooling and battery limitations. Always check manufacturer specs before selecting a hitch class.
Last modified: December 24, 2025
